Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Across the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district area and over 3,000 vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Vineyards assist cities remain greener and more diverse. These spaces protect open space from construction by creating long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.

Mystery Polish Variety

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Throughout Bristol

The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown yeast."

Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a fence on

Steven Ortiz
Steven Ortiz

Elara is an avid adventurer and travel writer, sharing personal tales and practical advice from years of exploring remote wilderness and cultures.